Guest Blogger, Barry Trebach: Ode to Katz’s
It’s not chic, it’s not cozy, it’s not quiet, it’s not particularly warm, it’s not small, it’s not cheap, it’s not new, it’s not lite fare, it’s not for dieters, it’s not for vegetarians, it’s not for the
germ phobic, it’s not fast food, it’s not kosher, it’s not to be taken lightly.
Katz’s is one of a dying breed of deli in NY (and therefore the world). Opened in 1888, it remains the one and only, in the same location on the lower east side of NY:
Open with a dog with sauerkraut and a Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry soda. Think about, but don’t order, the next course. If you’re undecided, order a “combo”: half a sandwich of pastrami and half of something else. Never, never, never leave Katz;s without eating some pastrami. They have the pastrami de touti pastrami. I’m partial to the tongue but I recognize that puts me in very limited company. Try the corned beef. Or, be bold and simply order the pastrami sandwich. Side of half or whole sour pickles and you’re set. The fries are fine, the knish is often bland, the cole slaw is horrible–but why bother with such filler. If you have room for desert you’ve done something wrong.
Don’t put off going. The neighborhood is going upscale so fast and furiously that someone is going to make the owners an offer he can’t refuse. Then, we’re all hosed. No more Katz’s. You won’t be able to get pastrami in the condos that will replace this joint. Maybe you never had the chance to see Mantle or Mays but you probably missed Michael Jordan and Cal Ripken. Don’t make that type of mistake again. Go stuff your face and enjoy.
